We’ve had unseasonal rains. The river is flowing fast and clean, creating a big pool where we loll about and cool off on steamy days. On Saturday, we drive along the Nerrigundah road, where I walked in October and November, and see the landscape transformed. Where there were sandbars, there there is now a wide river, and the grass is an intense unAustralian green. At the bridge, the water is deep and bank to bank with no sign of the sun-dappled rocks under its hurry. The road near the causeways has been washed away and everywhere there are signs of flood wrack: uprooted trees, tangles of vegetation, and a washed-away car trailer. Pelting rain fills the gutters with rushing brown water, but eases off as we crest the mountain.