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The third boardwalk before Cape Tribulation provides a feast of palm fans in all their stages. It passes through mangroves, rainforest and freshwater swamp. I pass a tree caged in the roots of a strangler fig; a flower spilling itself onto leaves and the ground; swathes of fibre that looks like human hair; more irresistible mangrove buttresses; splotched trunks; and strange leaves and fruit.