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Two towns on my journey north provide rich rewards for looking down. 

In Gulgong a local potter has made ceramic tiles which are inlaid in the footpath: they recall the symbols swaggies left for each other. “Dangerous people”; “good haystack for sleeping”; “money usually given here”; “dangerous drinking water”; “tell a pathetic story.” These signs are part of an international language used by gypsies and American hoboes as well as Australian swaggies.

In Inverell, the MacIntyre River winds its way in mosaic along the footpath outside the Art Gallery, with images of the flowers, animals and insects you might find if you follow it in its watery manifestation.