On Sunday we desert Cemetery Beach and drive 50 kilometres north to meet another part of the Narooma Accretionary Zone, our provocateur Natalie Stokes via her honours thesis. We read the abstract and it actually sounds comprehensible. The whole thesis holds promise of expert guidance to specific details at a specific place, something we badly need after the mylonite debacle.
It’s perfect weather for exploring the rocks around Melville Point, the headland between Tomakin Cove and Barlings Beach. We walk up to the lookout and are swept away in a vast view, westto the mountains of the Great Dividing Range; south over semicircular beaches, chunky islands and blue sea as far as Gulaga; and north along Barlings Beach, backed by new development and a caravan park, to the bushy headland at Guerilla Bay. We are momentarily unbalanced by the sight of a tiny figure on a surfboard, challenging our sense of scale: even more so when a gigantic human figure – in comparison – approaches and plucks it out of the water. Reason then tells us it’s a remote controlled model surfer, but not until reason has been given a thorough shake-up.
The signage around the headland lists the pioneer families; notes the passing of humpback whales between September and November en route to their Antarctic feeding grounds; recounts the presence of 100 convicts in 1840, about the time transportation to Australian stops; and documents the use of Broulee to the south as a harbour until the sea removed the sandspit connecting the island to the mainland. There is no mention of the original inhabitants.
We make our way down a track cut into what may well be a midden to the rock platforms at the base of Melville Point. Bright orange rocks stretch out to cerulean sea.
To begin with the rock platform is flattish and easy to negotiate, but then sharp-edged rocky spurs rise, separated by rock pools covered with neptune’s necklace. J is out of sight, despite a still-dodgy leg. I, who managed to fall over getting out of bed this morning, am less confident and far less agile.
I’m almost stopped at a point where I need to sit down to lower myself to the next level, but J’s mad arm-waving suggests there’s something worth seeing and I persist. I tread gingerly till I reach a jumble of large rocks where I tread even more gingerly as they move beneath my feet. At last I’m walking on smaller pebbles at the base of a spectacular cliff.
There are stripes of maroon, ochre, blue, green, opalescent, brown, cream: a large circular pattern in a square; chevrons; rock broken into small rectangles. So many shapes and textures and colours. In a cave tucked under the cliffs someone has placed chairs and a small plastic table: we imagine sitting there under the full moon as the sea roars in.
Each ridge jutting out reveals more rock beauty, and foot challenges. Any expected similarity to Cemetery Beach has been well and truly knocked on the head by now. What we’re seeing we’ve never seen before.
We’re well around the headland, and I’m hopeful that we’ll actually get all the way around, something I’ve rarely managed with a headland before. J returns to offer me a steadying hand and we negotiate the last pools before the northern rock face, at the south end of Barlings Beach, which is far less worn away than the area we have just walked through.
The sun is full on the cliff, and the sky very blue above. Our last pleasure is a formation reminiscent of a stained glass window, circles marked with a mosaic of marbled rock.
We are sated with beauty and sunshine – and no further forward in our search for geological enlightenment.
Pingback: Jo’s Monday walk : The beauty of Bamburgh | restlessjo
Lucid Gypsy said:
Padding, that’s what you need a bit more of, then if you must tumble it won’t hurt so much. Seriously, take care but keep doing what you’re doing so beautifully x:-)x
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morselsandscraps said:
I’m the epitome of caution, let me assure you! And I’m glad you think I’m doing it beautifully.
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Heyjude said:
The rocks are wonderful, but do take care. One slip and you risk a broken ankle or worse! I’m useless at clambering over rocks these days, my hips and knees just refuse to allow me to lift up my legs and I get so frustrated not being able to leap from one rock to another like I used to.
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morselsandscraps said:
I’m getting better and better at it as I do it more and more. I’m too hesitant which is a metaphor for my life.
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Heyjude said:
I wouldn’t describe you as hesitant in the least. You are the most curious person I have known 🙂
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morselsandscraps said:
Ask J. Dunno how he’s accommodated to my timidities.
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Sue said:
Oh, Meg! Do look after yourself! (Mind, I’m a right one to talk….two tumbles in the last couple of weeks, but no damage other than a graze and a bruise) Thanks for the virtual walk, it was lovely
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restlessjo said:
Please be a bit more careful, Sue! I’m too far away to pick up the pieces 😦
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Sue said:
Well, I was using two sticks…but heat and humidity are the real issue for me, and I need to do very little on such days when I’m on my own….
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morselsandscraps said:
I do not deserve your concern!!! Whereas you certainly do mine – I saw what heat does to you in Warsaw and it was scary.
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Sue said:
It is scary, Meg….I’ve been a bit curtailed in activity as we’ve had warm, humid days here…but life must go on!
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Rosemary Barnard said:
Forget geological enlightenment. At least don’t make it the priority on these sorties. Just soak up the wondrous aesthetics as you are doing here.
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morselsandscraps said:
Found a pile of articles on local sites this morning, and walked on chert on Saturday. J no longer has to contemplate abseiling up Glasshouse Rocks!!!
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susurrus said:
I hope you didn’t take any harm from your tumble – as restlessjo says, please take care! This looks like terrain to heal the soul but twist an ankle. Your post is very evocative – I feel like I have walked with you this morning and have enjoyed the fresh sea breeze and the immensity of history.
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morselsandscraps said:
You are absolutely right about both aspects of the terrain! Thank you for your company.
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restlessjo said:
Sated with beauty and sunshine would be good enough for me, Meg. 🙂 🙂 Extraordinary formations! Men must have a lower centre of gravity. My balance is rubbish these days. And will you please stop falling out of bed? I know you’re eager to get going, but there are limits. 🙂 Healing hugs!
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morselsandscraps said:
We sleep at floor level, so I didn’t actually fall,out of bed. I fell over when I stood up and somehow missed the door I’ve known for 40 years. And it was 2am so I wasn’t eager to get going! I just fell over. Thank you for your concern. I suspect Friday night wine or four may have been partly to blame. Sunset hugs, after another day of rock hopping. Do you want this one for Monday?
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restlessjo said:
Yes please 🙂 🙂 I can understand groggy at 2. Just getting upright is tricky sometimes. It was a late one for me last night. You won’t be aware but it’s US Open tennis time of year and a certain person was playing much past my bedtime.
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Suzanne said:
I’ve seen rocks like somewhere too. Maybe it was on the south coast. Down here it’s all volcanic. Seeing your photos I can understand your fascination with geology.
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morselsandscraps said:
Have you spent much time in this part of the world?
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Suzanne said:
On and off over the years. I took my kids for an extended road trip up that way once. We camped in various places along the coast and did a lot of exploring.
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